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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.